What a Home Inspection Covers — and What It Misses

Reading time — 6 min read
Last updated: Aug 7, 2026
What a Home Inspection Covers — and What It Misses

Summary

A home inspection is your best look under the hood before you buy — but it has real limits. Here is what inspectors check, what they skip, and how to use the report.

A home inspection is a few hundred dollars that can save you tens of thousands. An inspector spends a few hours going through the house and hands you a report on its real condition — the single best tool you have to buy with your eyes open. But it isn't magic, and knowing its limits matters as much as knowing its strengths.

What a standard inspection covers

A general home inspection is a visual, non-invasive look at the parts of the house an inspector can safely reach:

  • Structure — foundation, framing, and signs of movement or water damage.
  • Roof — covering, flashing, gutters, and visible leaks (from the ground or roof when accessible).
  • Systems — heating, cooling, electrical panel and outlets, and plumbing fixtures and drains.
  • Exterior and interior — siding, windows, doors, walls, ceilings, floors, and drainage/grading around the home.
  • Safety — smoke detectors, obvious hazards, and major code concerns that are visible.

What it usually does NOT cover

This is where buyers get surprised. A standard inspection typically excludes anything behind walls or underground, plus a long list of specialty items:

  • Inside walls, under slabs, and buried lines — inspectors don't open walls or dig.
  • Sewer lines — a separate sewer-scope catches root intrusion and collapses a normal inspection can't.
  • Chimneys, pools, wells, and septic — usually their own specialist inspections.
  • Mold, radon, asbestos, lead, and pests — these need dedicated tests.
  • Anything blocked — a wall of boxes in front of the panel means it doesn't get inspected.

How to read the report

Every house — even new construction — comes back with a list. Don't panic at the length; sort the findings into three buckets: safety and structural (fix or walk), major systems (roof, HVAC, electrical, plumbing — money items), and cosmetic or maintenance (normal, budget for it over time). A worn water heater is expected; a cracked heat exchanger or an active roof leak is a negotiation.

Turning findings into a negotiation

The inspection contingency in your contract gives you room to respond. Common outcomes: ask the seller to make repairs before closing, request a credit so you fix it your way, renegotiate the price, or, if it's bad enough, walk away with your earnest money intact. Which move is right depends on the market and the severity — exactly the judgment a good agent brings.

Common questions

Should I attend the inspection?

Yes, if you can. Walking the home with the inspector teaches you more than the report — you'll learn where the shutoffs are, how to maintain the systems, and see problems with your own eyes.

Is an inspection required to buy?

Not by law, and not by most lenders — but skipping one is a real gamble. Even on new construction, inspections routinely surface issues worth catching before closing.

What's the difference between an inspection and an appraisal?

An inspection assesses the home's condition for you; an appraisal estimates its value for the lender. They're separate people, separate purposes.

Get an agent who reads reports for a living

A strong buyer's agent has sat through hundreds of inspections and knows which findings are routine and which are leverage. Get matched with a local buyer's agent → — it's free, and your information is never resold.

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Am I obligated to work with anyone you show me?
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What if I already have an agent?
Use them. You can still run a valuation or compare carrying costs here for a second opinion, and you’re never obligated to be matched.
How accurate is the home value estimate?
It’s built from recent comparable sales near you rather than a national model, and it shows you which sales drove the number so you can check the reasoning. Treat it as a starting point — an agent will refine it after seeing the home.
How is that different from other online estimates?
Most public estimates are a national algorithm applied to your ZIP code. Ours is comp-driven and shows its work, so you can tell whether the sales behind it actually resemble your home.
What is the difference between list price and true monthly cost?
List price is what a seller is asking. True monthly is what the home costs you to hold once property taxes, insurance, HOA dues and the payment at current rates are counted. Two homes at the same asking price can differ by hundreds a month.
How much do I need for a down payment?
It depends on the loan program. Conventional loans often start around 3–5% for qualified buyers, FHA around 3.5%, and VA and USDA can go to zero for those who qualify. Less than 20% down generally means mortgage insurance until you build equity.
What is a debt-to-income ratio and why does it matter?
It’s your monthly debt payments divided by your gross monthly income. Many conventional programs look for total debt at or below roughly 43%, though this varies by program and by the rest of your file.
Should I get pre-approved before I start looking?
Yes, in most markets. A pre-approval tells you your ceiling and tells sellers you’re credible. Treat the number as a ceiling rather than a target — what you qualify for and what you can comfortably carry are rarely the same.
How long does it take to buy a home?
From accepted offer to keys is commonly 30–45 days with financing, faster with cash. The search itself varies enormously with inventory and how specific your requirements are.
How long does it take to sell?
It depends on your market, your price and the season. Your agent should be able to tell you the recent days-on-market for homes like yours, which is a far better guide than any national average.
What does an agent’s commission cover?
Pricing, preparation, marketing, showings, negotiation and the transaction management that gets you to closing. Commission is negotiable and is agreed between you and your agent — we’re not party to it.
Do I have to pay a commission as a buyer?
How buyer-side compensation works changed recently and now varies by market and by agreement. Your agent must put their fee in writing with you before showing homes, so ask early and get it in the agreement.
Should I sell before I buy?
It’s a cash-flow question more than a market question. Selling first is safer financially but can leave you renting; buying first is smoother logistically but means carrying two payments if your sale is slow.
What should I fix before listing?
Usually the cheap, visible things: paint, lighting, landscaping, decluttering. Big renovations rarely return their cost at sale. An agent who works your street can tell you what buyers there actually notice.
Do I need a home inspection?
Almost always worth it, even in a competitive market. An inspection is information — you can still choose to proceed, but you’ll proceed knowing what you’re taking on.
What are closing costs?
The fees to complete the transaction: lender charges, title and escrow, recording, prepaid taxes and insurance. They commonly run a few percent of the purchase price and vary a lot by state.
How do rental applications work?
Landlords and management companies set their own screening criteria and fees. Requirements differ building to building, so knowing what a specific landlord wants before you apply is most of the battle.
Do you charge renters anything?
No. We don’t charge to search or to get matched. Landlords often charge their own application or screening fee, and who pays the rental agent’s fee at signing depends on your market and the building.
Who do I contact if something goes wrong?
Reach us at [email protected]. We’re a matching service rather than a brokerage, so we’re not party to your transaction — but we do want to know when a matched agent isn’t performing.

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